Highlights : CFW SS25

Copenhagen Fashion Week has rapidly gained recognition as a premier event in the global fashion calendar, distinguished by its strong commitment to supporting emerging designers and championing sustainability. Unlike other major fashion weeks, such as Paris Fashion Week, Copenhagen stands out for its focus on nurturing new talent and fostering innovation with a deep emphasis on eco-conscious practices. The event's unique selling point lies in its dedication to creating a more responsible fashion industry, setting itself apart by integrating sustainability into every aspect, from showcasing designers who prioritize ethical production to organizing events that reduce environmental impact. This forward-thinking approach not only highlights the creativity of up-and-coming designers but also positions Copenhagen Fashion Week as a leader in the global movement towards a more sustainable fashion future. We are proud to stock some of the featured brands such as Henrik Vibskov, FINE CHAOS and The Garment.

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Henrik Vibskov

 

Henrik Vibskov, the award-winning Danish designer, remains as imaginative and thought-provoking as ever, unveiling his SS25 collection on a grander scale in Copenhagen after its initial presentation in Milan.

In Vibskov's creative realm, boundaries don't exist. Though he is a staple at Copenhagen Fashion Week, his eponymous brand occasionally graces the runways of Paris and Milan. It was in Milan this past June that his spring/summer '25 collection, "The Orchestra of the Soft Assistance," made its debut. Two months later, Vibskov fulfilled his promise to expand the Milanese presentation threefold and introduce a second drop, all of which was showcased today at Copenhagen's Den Grå Hal.

The SS25 collection sends a powerful message, exploring the presence or absence of empathy across the human and animal worlds. Hands, along with legs and even tentacles from various species, serve as key motifs in the collection, influencing its draping, fluidity, prints, and amorphous silhouettes. "We have to be better as humans in assisting one another, and hands play a significant role in that," Vibskov explained in a phone interview before the show. "You help with your hands, you shake hands, you welcome with your hands," he added, sharing a humorous anecdote about receiving an important call while his hands were covered in blue cheese.

This season, Vibskov has opted for a more subdued approach compared to previous collections, which featured neon accents, canned tomato motifs, and boxing paraphernalia. He attributes this change to an intuitive reflection on the current global climate. "Everything is more toned down, color-wise," he noted. "Many of the tones are earthy because, in my view, given the state of our minds and the world, it doesn't feel like the right time for super bold pink." The new additions to the collection for Copenhagen are focused on womenswear, with textiles primarily made from recycled or organically certified fibers—an aspect Vibskov continues to expand each season.

While other designers are singularly focused on their SS25 shows, Vibskov is juggling multiple projects. These include designing and constructing a music festival set in the woods, organizing a major photoshoot for the brand, and hosting an event for his own 'Practical Intelligent Genius' foundation. For Vibskov, there are no limits to what he might undertake next.

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Fine Chaos

 

For its spring/summer '25 collection, the Danish brand offered a post-apocalyptic vision of today's world.

Before unveiling its spring/summer ’25 collection, titled ‘Fear the Dome,’ Fine Chaos hinted at a "clash of despair and hope" awaiting guests. The brand's two-hour showcase indeed exuded an intense atmosphere, set amid wild greenery nestled between warehouses and stacked containers. As loud techno beats filled the air, models walked through the space with makeup that appeared slept-in—or not slept for days—some adorned with bloody cuts and others donning dystopian, ski mask-like goggles. "The main inspiration [for the collection] is the daily landscape in the world. What is going on right now – as a brand, we like to take inspiration from the political fields, the culture in Copenhagen, of course, but also outside Copenhagen," explained creative director Marc C. Møllerskov. "We draw from the current discourses thriving in young communities. So, it’s a reflection of the world we live in now, and at the same time, a critique of where we're headed as a species."

This distressed theme extended to the SS25 garments, which were deconstructed, ripped, and raw. "Nature, in many forms, decayed" was a key element on the brand’s mood board this season, perfectly complementing the worn and rugged aesthetic of the clothing. Deadstock and surplus fabrics like velvet, leather, and denim were crafted into a dynamic mix of oversized and snug silhouettes—a balance Møllerskov insists on maintaining in his collections. A dark color palette dominated the lineup, echoing the brand’s somber perspective on the current state of the world. However, the earlier hints of hope emerged through bursts of color, as well as butterfly and flower motifs—suggesting there might still be light at the end of the tunnel.

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The Garment

 

Absolutely, 1990s Jude Law should be your inspiration for next summer—especially if you plan on embracing The Garment's fashion homage to the nostalgic elegance of *The Talented Mr. Ripley.*

For The Garment's spring/summer '25 collection, creative director Charlotte Eskildsen once again draws inspiration from classic films. After channeling the 1980s thriller *American Gigolo* for last season, Eskildsen aimed for a "summer version" of that vibe, looking to *The Talented Mr. Ripley* as her muse this time around.

Known for her seamless blending of masculine and feminine elements, Eskildsen captured the Mediterranean's idyllic aesthetic and her cinematic references in a series of effortless, sophisticated looks. "I was particularly inspired by the men in *The Talented Mr. Ripley*—sitting in a square, sipping espresso, and sailing," she says. Naturally, this led to the inclusion of blazers, white trousers, and the essential polo in her spring/summer lineup.

Eskildsen began her design process by exploring French antique markets near her second home, sourcing inspiration from vintage laces, fabrics, and old aprons. "I love merging the masculine suit with a lacy apron," she says, referring to the scallop-edged, lace-trimmed cotton pieces that feature prominently in the spring/summer 2025 collection.

Not one for bright colors, Eskildsen experimented with her palette through chiffon this season. "It allowed me to use these dreamy blue shades without overpowering the look," she explains. The chiffon appears in a sheer suit, a tiered skirt, and a flowy maxi dress, all styled with The Garment's signature muted tones: taupe, dove grey, and bone white—what Eskildsen describes as "whipped cream and coffee tones." The *Talented Mr. Ripley* influence is also evident in the 1990s-inspired silhouettes, featuring spaghetti straps, fit-and-flare pants, and mini skirts layered over loose-fit tailored trousers.

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Deadwood

 

As models strutted down Deadwood's cobblestoned runway in Copenhagen, it felt like the coolest indie rock band imaginable had taken the stage.

Perhaps it was the guitar case carried by one of the models, or the effortless attitude in the layered styling, featuring the Swedish brand’s iconic leather coats and jackets paired with novelty print T-shirts and breezy parachute trousers. Deadwood's presentation captured the essence of a laid-back, on-the-road indie rock band this season.
Fully embracing grunge, the collection brought to mind the style of Alanis Morissette, with khaki workwear and classic black moto jackets making their way down the runway. A loose-fit, long-sleeved top, reminiscent of something straight out of Kurt Cobain’s wardrobe, was paired with two-tone leather trousers and a well-worn beige baseball cap.
The collection's weathered textiles and faded color palette posed the question: How does a leather brand committed to consciously sourced materials evolve on the runway? The answer: by staying true to its core aesthetic, offering black-and-white leather ensembles with undeniable star power, punctuated by bold red accessories.
 
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(di)vision
 
For its much-anticipated return to the runway, (di)vision has reimagined its upcycled ethos with a dystopian twist, transporting us to a steam-filled city where every garment is crafted from repurposed materials.

Ever since that viral tablecloth dress two seasons ago, we've been eagerly waiting to see what (di)vision would unveil next. This evening, however, there were no headline-grabbing stunts—unless you count the coat made entirely of discarded stuffed animals. Instead, for spring/summer '25, designer Simon Wick delivered a back-to-basics collection that highlighted what (di)vision does best. "I think we, as a brand, maybe grew up too fast," Wick reflects. "In the end, what we're probably best at, and what people love most about the brand, are these upcycled pieces and this playful universe."

This season, that upcycled universe fuses Wick’s favorite anime influences with *Blade Runner* vibes. Titled "The Dream of Steam City," the collection evokes a hazy, urban utopia where grimy pollution is replaced with something fresh and clean (with the show sponsored by clean beauty brand The Ordinary). "It’s this anime world, super urban maximalist, where everything is created from what you find," explains Wick. Even discarded wedding gowns are transformed into steampunk (di)vision bridal dresses, one of which was worn by Wick's wife, Larissa Diniz. "Everything is unique, one-of-a-kind pieces," Wick adds.

Beyond its commitment to upcycling, (di)vision is all about community—not just the diverse cast that graced the runway, including Brazilian influencer Livia Nunes Marques, who collaborated on a capsule collection featuring her home country’s flags. Immediately following the show, the entire collection will be made available to the brand’s loyal fans. If that’s not a utopian gesture, what is?
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Stamm
 
For spring/summer 2025, Stamm embraced a message of positivity through defiantly punk, oversized fits, and a release of live carrier pigeons.

Despite the "guilty" rhinestoned on T-shirts, designer Elisabet Stamm aimed to spread a positive vibe for her spring/summer 2025 collection—quite literally. The show, held on a basketball court atop the massive CIFF trade show, began with a flock of carrier pigeons released by a group of children, including Stamm’s son. “I didn’t want the message to be too obvious,” Stamm explained. “We just wanted to send something positive into the world. The pigeons take off from the roof and are trained to return home.” The collection, fittingly named *Best Wishes*, reflects this sentiment.

Beyond the symbolic pigeons, Stamm’s youthful, punk-infused aesthetic carried an undercurrent of optimism. This season, the collection leaned into anime-inspired playfulness, with models sporting bleach-blonde spiked wigs and otherworldly blue contacts. “It’s a little bit like, ‘Bless you,’ but also a little bit like, ‘F*** you,’” Stamm noted. Her signature oversized silhouettes—slouchy denim, oversized track jackets, big cozy rugby shirts—were balanced with figure-hugging pieces, including understated Tencel wool garments that draped beautifully on the body. For Stamm, it’s all about duality—yin and yang, positive and negative, dark and light (represented by yin-yang symbols stitched onto the clothes). Even the candy pink hues managed to feel both sweet and rebellious.

While a Stamm show is all about the vibes, there's also a strong emphasis on craftsmanship. Following last season’s show, Stamm spent a week in Paris, exhausted but determined, hunting for the right fabrics. “I needed to reconnect with the craft,” she said. This resulted in waxy, recycled nylon outerwear with a memory quality (“When you touch it, it leaves a mark”) and stiff, ultra-functional recycled twill workwear.

A Stamm show wouldn’t be complete without a deeply personal touch. This season, in addition to relaxed denim trousers marked with oil stains reminiscent of her truck driver father’s jeans, Stamm introduced a new brand logo—her father’s signature. “I get a bit emotional talking about it,” Stamm admitted. After a cash flow issue threatened the collection, Stamm had to ask her father, who knows nothing about the fashion industry, for a loan to secure a crucial fabric order. “I promised myself when I was 18 that I wouldn’t ask him for anything again, but I had to,” she shared. “The signature—it’s actually from the loan document.”
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Credits: Featured image photo collage by Angelina Ilmast.